Beginner 3D Printing Projects for Toymakers: Dice Towers, Miniatures and Custom Stands

Hook: Solve your supply, skill and budget headaches — start printing tabletop gear that actually gets used

If you’re a hobby toymaker or tabletop gamer frustrated by unclear part specs, scattered STL sources, and the price of ready-made accessories, this guide is for you. In 2026 the hobby 3D-printing scene has matured: affordable printers on AliExpress storefronts ship faster from local warehouses, high-resolution resin is accessible, and communities share polished STL designs. Here you get three beginner-friendly projects — a dice tower, a set of miniatures, and custom stands — with step-by-step builds, trusted STL sources, recommended print settings for budget printers, and finishing tips that make prints look pro.

Quick overview: What you’ll build and why it matters now (2026 updates)

Why this matters in 2026: late-2025 to early-2026 saw budget FDM and MSLA resin printers add features like auto-bed leveling, quieter drivers, and improved resin reliability — all at sub-$300 price points when bought from manufacturer storefronts on AliExpress with local warehousing. That makes now the perfect time to start producing gaming accessories at home.

AliExpress now hosts official storefronts with US warehouses and faster shipping, meaning genuine printers, warranties, and easier returns for hobbyists.

Each project below is tuned to budget FDM (Creality/Anycubic-style machines) and affordable MSLA resin printers so you can get reliable results without spending a fortune.

Before you start: Tools, materials and software checklist

Essential hardware (budget picks)

• FDM printer: Creality Ender series, Anycubic Kobra Neo, or similar (AliExpress storefronts often have the best deals)
• MSLA printer for minis: Elegoo Mars series or Anycubic Photon-series (small build plate but high detail)
• Slicer software: Ultimaker Cura or PrusaSlicer (FDM); Lychee or Chitubox (resin)
• Finishing: sandpaper (100–2000 grit), hobby files, brushes, primer, acrylic paints, superglue, neodymium magnets (6mm x 2mm), cyanoacrylate/epoxy
• Safety: nitrile gloves, respirator for sanding/painting, eye protection, ventilation for resin work

Filament & resin choices

• PLA: easiest, best for dice towers and stands. Use 1.75mm PLA from a trusted brand or store-bundles on AliExpress.
• PETG: durable and slightly flexible — good for work-heavy stands.
• Standard 405nm resin: high-detail miniatures; pick a trusted brand and cure properly.
• Specialty: matte PLA for fewer post-process steps, tough resin for playable minis that will get handled.

Project 1 — Dice Tower (Beginner; high impact)

Why make it

A dice tower is forgiving to print, quick to assemble, and instantly useful at game night. It’s a perfect first FDM project with visible improvements after simple finishing.

Materials & STL sources

• Material: PLA, 1kg spool (any color)
• Tools: sandpaper (220 & 400), hobby knife, superglue
• Recommended STLs: search "modular dice tower" on Printables, Thingiverse, or MyMiniFactory. Look for modular or split models sized to your dice (D20s, etc.).

Step-by-step print & assembly

1. Choose the right model: pick a tower that is split into sections (base, ramp, exit). Modular files print on small beds and are easier to paint.
2. Slicer setup (budget FDM):
   • Nozzle: 0.4mm
   • Layer height: 0.18–0.24mm (fast) or 0.12–0.16mm (smoother)
   • Print temp: 200–210°C for PLA
   • Bed temp: 50–60°C
   • Infill: 15–20% (grid/gyroid)
   • Walls: 2–3 perimeters
   • Support: minimal — enable supports only for overhangs in detailed models
   • Speed: 40–60mm/s for Ender-style printers
3. Print orientation: print the ramp pieces on their side to avoid supports and get cleaner internal surfaces.
4. Post-print prep: remove brim/raft, sand mating faces with 220 then 400 grit to remove layer lines for glue contact.
5. Assembly: dry-fit parts first. Use thin superglue on seams and clamp or tape while curing.
6. Finish: primer coat, light sand, then spray or brush paint. Add felt pads at the exit to protect dice and reduce noise.

Troubleshooting tips

• Layer separation: increase extrusion multiplier slightly and ensure filament is dry.
• Dice catching on seams: sand internal ramp areas with a rounded file for smoother roll.

Project 2 — Miniatures (Beginner-intermediate; use MSLA)

Why make it

Miniatures are where high-detail resin printing shines. In 2026 affordable MSLA printers rival mid-tier machines from a few years ago — great detail for small figures and conversions.

Materials & STL sources

• Material: 405nm standard resin (or a beginner-friendly "tough" resin if minis will be handled)
• Tools: isopropyl alcohol (90%+), resin vat filters, UV curing station or sunlight, fine sandpaper (400–1000), small files, brushes, primer
• STL sources: Cults3D, MyMiniFactory, and community packs on Printables. Search for "hero miniature pack" or "28mm character".

Step-by-step print & finishing (resin)

1. Prepare the model: scale to the target tabletop scale (commonly 28mm or 32mm base height). Add a small base if not included.
2. Slicer setup (MSLA):
   • Layer height: 0.03–0.05mm for crisp detail
   • Bottom layers: 3–6
   • Bottom exposure: follow resin guide (typical range 30–60s); run a test exposure if unsure
   • Normal layer exposure: consult resin settings; many 405nm resins print well at 1.8–3.5s on current budget MSLA machines
   • Supports: dense micro-supports near undercuts; orient to minimize supports on faces you plan to paint
3. Print & clean: wash prints in IPA (or an eco-friendly wash) for 2–5 minutes, then lightly pat dry.
4. Cure: UV cure per resin instructions — typically 2–10 minutes in a curing station, more for thicker parts.
5. Prep for painting: Remove supports carefully, sand nubs with 400–1000 grit, prime with a thin coat, and paint with acrylics.
6. Seal: use matte varnish for tabletop use; gloss for special effects.

Beginner tips

• Run a small test print to dial exposure, then print a full set.
• For gaming minis that will be handled, consider printing in a tougher resin or reinforcing thin parts.
• Label bases with a tiny dab of paint for quick army identification.

Project 3 — Custom Stands & Toy Mods (Beginner; versatile FDM)

Why make it

Custom stands let you display miniatures, organize components, or create gift-ready bases. They’re a great FDM project for learning tolerances and adding small hardware like magnets for modular toys.

Materials & STL sources

• Material: PLA or PETG (for extra durability)
• Tools: drill bit set, neodymium magnets, epoxy/superglue
• STLs: search "model stand" or "display base modular" on Printables and Thingiverse. Many creators provide customizable parametric designs you can resize.

Step-by-step: magnetic modular stand (example)

1. Pick a base STL: choose a flat base with a recessed pocket for a magnet (or print a small plug you can carve out).
2. Slicer settings (FDM budget):
   • Layer height: 0.16–0.2mm
   • Perimeters: 3 for strength
   • Infill: 20–40% (higher if a shelf or heavy stand)
   • Print speed: 40–50mm/s
3. Fit magnets: test-fit magnets dry, sand slot edges if tight. Glue with epoxy and let cure fully (24 hours recommended for full strength).
4. Finish: sand edges, prime, and paint. For a glossy retail look, apply a thin epoxy resin top-coat to the stand.
5. Toy mods: create replaceable parts (weapon swaps, hats) by adding small pegs & magnet sockets in the model before printing — parametric modelers like OpenSCAD are useful here.

Finishing techniques that make prints look store-bought

Good finishing amplifies a simple print into a shelf-worthy piece. Below are practical, repeatable steps used by hobby pros.

Sanding & priming

• Start with 220 grit to level obvious layer lines, move to 400–600 for smoothing, finish with 1000–2000 for a nearly polished surface.
• Use a plastic-friendly primer (spray) in thin coats. Two light coats are better than one thick coat.

Gap filling & seam hiding

• Use a hobby filler or thin CA glue with baking soda to fill seams for quick rock-hard patches.
• Light sand after curing, then prime again before painting.

Painting

• Base coat with acrylic or spray primer, then layer with thinned acrylics.
• Dry brushing adds texture to raised details. Washes (thinned paint) flow into recesses and deepen shadow.
• Seal with matte varnish for game-ready pieces; use gloss selectively for gems or lenses.

Resin-specific finishing

• Always fully wash uncured resin away and cure before sanding or painting.
• Use fine sanding, then a primer made for resin. Avoid overheating during cure — follow resin and printer guidelines.

Settings cheat-sheet for common budget setups

• Ender-style FDM (PLA): 0.4mm nozzle, 0.18mm layer height, 200–210°C, 60°C bed, 40–50mm/s, 15–20% infill.
• Anycubic/Creality higher-detail FDM: 0.2mm layer height option, 3 perimeters, 20–30% infill for stands.
• MSLA resin minis: 0.03–0.05mm layer height, 3–6 bottom layers, start with resin manufacturer exposure and fine-tune; Lychee/Chitubox slicing for supports and orientation.

Quality, cost and speed trade-offs

On budget printers you trade time for quality: slower prints and finer layers = better surface. Where possible, use resin for tiny details and FDM for functional, larger pieces. Buying spools in bulk on marketplaces like AliExpress saves money, but don’t skimp on resin or filament quality for final pieces.

Troubleshooting quick guide

• Warping (FDM): use brim/raft, raise bed temp slightly, try PETG if PLA fails.
• Stringing: lower retraction distance/speed; dry filament helps.
• Underexposed resin layers: increase exposure slightly; check resin age.
• Adhesion failure: re-level the bed and clean with isopropyl alcohol.

Real-world mini case study: a 2025-26 community run

In late 2025 a local gaming co-op started a program to produce custom dice towers and stands for new members using two Ender-style printers and one MSLA unit bought from AliExpress. Over 12 weekends they printed 50 towers, 200 display stands, and 120 painted minis. Key lessons: tune one common slicer profile and iterate, pre-sand contact faces for quick assembly, and use magnets for modularity. The project cut accessory costs by ~70% vs retail while producing better customization.

2026 trends and future predictions for hobby toymakers

• Local inventory and faster shipping: expect lower wait times on AliExpress and manufacturer-backed returns.
• Refined budget MSLA machines: more sub-$300 high-res resin options with better software ecosystems.
• Community STL collaboration: parametric and modular designs will grow; expect more templates that are easy to resize for specific dice or base sizes.
• Hybrid workflows: combining FDM and resin prints for sturdy bases with detailed tops will become common for small studios and hobbyists. See resources on multimodal workflows for hybrid production and content sharing.

Final tips & trusted links

• Search STLs on: Printables, Thingiverse, MyMiniFactory, and Cults3D.
• Find budget printers and verified manufacturer storefronts on AliExpress; watch for US/Europe warehouses to cut shipping times and ensure warranty.
• Join community slicer profiles (Discord, Reddit r/3Dprinting) to copy tuned settings for specific printer models—peer-led networks and community groups are a great resource: peer-led community interviews highlight how groups share profiles and workflows.

Actionable takeaways

• Start with a dice tower using PLA on your FDM printer — it’s forgiving and useful immediately.
• Use MSLA resin for minis, but always run a small exposure test print first.
• Adopt parametric STLs for stands if you need exact fit/tolerances for toy mods and magnets.
• Leverage AliExpress storefronts for lower-cost printers and fast local shipping in 2026.

Call to action

Ready to print your first dice tower or a full set of minis? Explore curated STL packs and tested filament bundles at our store, or join our weekly hobby print clinic where we share slicer profiles and hands-on tips for budget printers. Click through to get starter packs and step-by-step project files tailored for your printer model — let’s make something you’ll actually use at game night.

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